Michelle Pfeiffer as Selina Kyle/Catwoman in Batman Returns
Browsing through the A/W catwalks online, one thing became extraordinarily apparent: the secretary look is definitely back and is more beige (sorry, 'camel') than ever. This season the secretary look differs from the one we've seen in seasons past, as in the shy, yet sultry, understated vixen that resulted in everyone and their dog donning a pussybow blouse and high waisted skirt, a la Maggie Gyllenhaal in the fierceness that was Secretary. No, no, this season the look is largely more refined, more edgy and on the whole, more purposeful.
Céline A/W 10 (pictures from elle.com)
Phoebe Philo's new vision of controlled cool and minimalist glamour at Céline last season was still very much in play for A/W. Forget all that subtle thigh-flashing secretary chic has taught us to covet, this new grown up, pared-down thing is all about being self-assured, not being the typical office minx. This is power dressing without the obvious 'LOOK AT ME, I'M POWERFUL' shoulders and all that stuff, this is power dressing for the woman who is powerful and knows it, without needing the reassurance that comes with everyone else in the room knowing it too. The matte leather skirt and masculine-style blouse is a dream combination, I'm sure, for so many women who want to feel fierce in the workplace without ever having to try too hard. The key to Phoebe Philo/Céline's success is a clear lack of excess which is being welcomed with open arms, and heralded as a new era in high fashion. This shift in attitude, largely caused by the global recession, has seen designers stepping away from the fantasy element usually so prevalent on the runway and instead considering actual consumers and their wants and needs as real women. This has created a new focus on simple, wearable clothing, without scrimping on the luxury aspect.
Chloé A/W 10 (pictures from elle.com)
Showing a collection made up of a largely cream/camel/sand/whatever else you want to call beige palette, Chloé made it clear that they are also on board with this understated, more consumer-led, trend. The collection was full of spectacularly wearable separates, which is perfect for the level-headed consumer who wants not only 'investment pieces' to covet for eternity, but pieces that can be mixed and matched for a laid back approach. Another dominant feature of these looks was the pussybow that adorned practically all of the blouses in the collection (there's that secretary influence again!). I think this was Hannah MacGibbon's way of showing that this new era of simplicity can go hand in hand with a classically feminine approach, rather than having to be completely rigid and austere. There are turtlenecks a-plenty, and hemlines are never above the knee here, but these are not conservative clothes for boring women. These are not strict, serious clothes, they are just clothes that mean business.
Marc Jacobs A/W 10 - pictures from elle.com
Marc Jacobs' vision seemed to be a lot more traditional secretary/librarian girl than the subtle hints at secretary chic that I mentioned before. From the knit/skirt/socks ensemble above to the more night-worthy look comprised of a chunky grandad knit paired with a slinky full length skirt, this collection is definitely 'geeky-slightly-awkward-bookish-but-still-hot-librarian-secretary-girl' steeze. This is the kind of look I could really get into, especially if it means it might be acceptable to wear a comfy jumper with a skirt on a night out (the look was big across a lot of collections!). This completely effortless, warm and comfortable take on secretarial style/Autumn fashion in general is, again, another nod to the fact that consumers want clothes that are wearable and practical, as well as fierce, and is something entirely achievable without needing a Marc Jacobs appropriate budget. And that, my friends, is definitely something I can get behind.
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